The best tires for bicycle commuting or bicycle touring
Tires are the point of contact between the ground and the bicycle, and thus they are directly responsable for the cushioning of the imperfections of the roadbed, and hence the comfort of a bicycle. Also, the technical characteristics of tires ( formula of the rubber, section, profile) determines the other qualities sought in tires, such as adherence, low rolling resistance, or protection against flats. Unfortunately, whether its due to scientific conceptions that seem logical but frequently erroneous or just to unfounded opinions, there's total misunderstanding about bicycle tires. Here I will try to set these misunderstandings straight.
Loosly translated with permission from the superlative page in French of
A little bit of history
The city bike and touring bike return, with appropriate tires
Rolling resistance – what is it exactly?
How is it possible that wide tires roll more easily than narrow ones?
If wide tires are better, why do the pros race on narrow tires?
Resistence to forward motion isn't the only factor
Wide tires are better!
An exception : classic frames made of steel
Why ride on smooth tires?
The role of knobs
Smooth tires cause aquaplaning – a stupidity!
Tubeless tires
Kevlar, Aramide, Vectran, …
Filled tires
The myth of 26" wheels
What about the 650 B ?
27.5" and 29"tires
Tire sizes : the mess!
The E.T.R.T.O. system to the rescue
Which tire for which rim?
Quality and reliability: tubes and rim stripsalso matter
All tire sizes and their E.T.R.T.O. equivalent
A little bit of history
Until the early 1970s all good touring bikes were equipped with wide tires in the range of 35mm to 44mm; the bigger ones were called "semi-baloon". A new little toy became everyone's dream (in Europe): the car. The practical and utilitarian bicycle was displaced little by little in favor of this new means of transportation. The cycle industry needed to find a new means to flatter the ego of consumers, and that was the racing bike, associated with the modern values of society, speed and performance. Bicycle weight became an obsession. The search for lightness pushed racers to adopt narrower and narrower tires. Copying this trend, the touring bicycle followed the same path and began to resemble a racing bicycle even though the requirements of touring cyclists and racing cyclists were not at all the same. Little by little comfortable wide tires, inflated at low pressures, gave way to uncomfortable narrow tires, inflated to the maximum. Wide tires reappeared with the invention of mountain bikes, but they had knobs, made noise, vibrated and were uncomfortable on the road. For a long time, urban cyclists and touring cyclists had to make due with narrow tires that were uncomfortable and poorly adapted to loaded bikes.
The city bike and touring bike return, with appropriate tires
Today the situation has changed. Often there is so much traffic in a city that one can go faster with a bicycle. Gasoline (petrol) prices are high and use of petroleum has a negative impact on the planet. The bicycle again attracts interest as an efficient and practical alternative means of moving about, and bicycle touring is beginning to become more prevalent. Cycling is associated more and more with notions of liberty, curiosity, discovery, and improved health. Now that the bicycle is again being used as a means of transportation, it makes perfect sense to have that transportation as comfortable as possible. Since tires play an indisputable role in the percetption of comfort, tire companies have created not only to rubber which is lighter, more resistant and with less rolling resistance, but also began selling wide tires that are better adapted to city and touring bikes. How is it that touring bikes are still found with unsuitable tires? It's because the millieu of professional racing narrow tires are essential, and because customers believe what is good for the pro racer must necessarily be good for everybody. .
Roling resistence – what is it exactly ?
Rolling resistance is the energy that is lost when the tire rolls. It is principally due to the brief deformation of each part of the tire in contact with the road. The factors that influence rolling resistance, among others, are:

- the inflation pressure: the more a tire is hard, the less it deforms – that is obvious.
- the diameter of the tire: a tire of small diameter deforms proportionally more at the same pressure, and thus has more rolling resistence.
- the rubber utilized: a flexible rubber requires less energy for the same deformation.
- the technique of fabrication: If there is less material to deform, it takes less energy to deform it..
- the profile of the tire: a smooth tire has less material to deform, so it takes less energy to deform it. Smooth tires have less rolling resistence.
- the cross section: wide tires roll better than narrow ones. The widely prevelent thinking that the opposite is true – that more width causes more friction – is the principal cause of bad tire choices. The three paragraphs that follow delve into this.

How is it possible that wide tires roll more easily than narrow ones?
The answer lies in the deflection of the tire. Every tire squishes down under a load, creating a flat surface against the ground. (For a tire inflated at say 100 pounds per square inch – 7 bar, each square inch of contact supports 100 pounds, so a 200 pound loaded bicycle would need 1 square inch of contact for each tire. ) At the same pressure a narrow tire and a wide one have the same amount of surface in contact, but the form is not the same. A wide tire has the contact mainly along its width, where the narrow tire has it along its circumference. The narrow tire is less round than the wide one. Measurements prove that this uses up more energy.
If wide tires are better, why do the pros race on narrow tires?

Large tires roll beter at the same pressure, but narrow ones can be inflated to higher pressures. At higher pressures, clearly, they are less comfortable. At less than 12 mph (20km/h), on flat terrain, a bicycle with large tires rolls faster than one with narrow tires, no doubt about it. If the pros want narrow tires, it is because of other factors. Narrow tires have less air resistance, and this becomes more and more important with higher speeds. But above all, narrow tires permit narrower rims, less tire weight, and less tube weight, and thus wheels noticably lighter and easier to accelerate thanks to their lower inertia. A bicycle that is more agile, more sensitive, and easier to accelerate – that is what racers are looking for. In addition, the slightest slope demands additional effort to overcome the weight of wider wheels and tires. [In the chart below (in French) 1 = rolling resistence, 2=the effect of gravity on a moderate hill, and 3= air resistence.]


Source: Schwabe

Resistance to forward motion isn't the only factor
So we see that depending upon the speed with which one rides and whether the ground is flat or hilly, a different width tire may be called for to obtain the least ristence to forward motion. However, for urban cycling or bicycle touring resistence is not necessarily the most important factor. It may be more important to empahasize other qualities, such as adherence to wet or dry ground, comfort, and resistence to flats.
Wide tires are better!
Wide tires provide the least resistence to forward mothion at slow speeds on flat ground. But additionally the studies show that wide tires can absorb 33% more of the small vibrations from the road than narrow ones (in comparison to only 25% for suspended forks) and the elimination of these vibrations contributes greatly to the comfort of a bicycle. That's the reason that we see more and more top of the line bicycles fitted with very wide baloon tires of up to 50 mm or more in width. Moreover, they not only act as an integrated suspension that absorbs vibrations and the bumps in a road, but also they roll well at typical speeds, better protect the rims against shocks, and reduce the risk of flat tires. In conclusion wide tires are a much better choice for city bikes and also, in some cases, for touring bikes over short and long distances, on highways or on bad roads.
An exception: classic frames made of steel
The more tires are narrow, the more they have to be inflated, becoming more and more hard and less and less capable of filtering out the imperfections of the road surface and of isolating the cyclist from shocks and vibrations. They are a torture on a frame of aluminum or carbon with especially rigid oversized tubes. However a frame made of small diameter tubes of a fine steel alloy (Reynolds, Columbus, etc) offers an agreeable suppleness and act somewhat like a spring that compensates for the hardness of the tires. Nowadays very few manufacturers offer a steel frame with narrow tires, and yet these bikes are very pleasant. However, even if vibration is not a problem, the narrow tires are still suseptible to chocks and the risk of flat tires, and therefore are best reserved for use on smooth paved roads without potholes.
Why ride on smooth tires?
On a road, even if wet, a smooth tire has a better adherence, because more rubber is touching the road. This has been proven in numberous tests. The best adherence is from completely smooth tires. If bike tires sometimes have a pattern, it is for esthetic and especially psychological reason, to reassure the cyclist who has fear of skidding under wet conditions! The surface of any road is not perfectly smooth, and the rubber of the tire deforms into the low points. On dirt a few tire ridges may improve traction on by pushing into the earth.
The role of knobs
On an ashphaulted road the adherence of a tire is entirely governed by the formulation of the rubber. On trails, however,large knobs are very important. They catch on the terrain and permit transference of the forces of acceleration, braking and changes of direction. They are perfectly suitable for a mountain bike, but not called for in the city on or the highway, where they vibrate, make noise, and greatly increase rolling resistence.
Smooth tires cause aquaplaning – a stupidity!
It's popular advice on the Internet and elsewhere, in response to the question of this type: " I use my bike to go to work and I am going to ride in winter. What do you suggest for tires? And without fail there's always sombody who responds "take tires with ridges in order to avoid aquaplaning."

Aquaplaning is a physical phenomenon that takes place when a vehicle advances very rapidly over ground saturated with water. Water, like all liquids, has a viscosity. Acquaplaning takes place if the evacuation of water beneath the tire isn't sufficiently rapid. In that case the tire climbs onto the water and loses its contact witht he ground, with all the risks associated. Let's be clear: no matter what its speed, even with smooth tires, it is strictly impossible for a bicycle to acquaplane! ! When a bike slips or falls after it enters into a puddle quickly, it's because of the sudden resistance of the water and the loss of control of the front wheel, which has nothing to do with aquaplaning. In fact, even with an automobile, acquaplaning occurs infrequently. It is primarily of concern for trucks and for landing airplanes. Applying mathmatical formulas, a bicycle would have to move at more than 120 mph (200 km/h) for aquaplaning to occur.

Therefore the correct response to the question posed on the Internet is exactly the contrary to the one typically given. "To avoid slipping on a wet road surface, ride with tires that are entirely smooth! "

Tubeless tires
Tubeless tires are circular in cross-section and contain an integral airtube. They are lighter than regular tires with tubes, and roll faster. However tubeless tires are only manufactured for racing or mountain biking. Moreover they are not easy or practical to repair after a flat tire. If by some chance you have a tubless rim, don't in any case try to fit a regular tire onto it. It is highly dangerous.

Kevlar, Aramide, Vectran, …
Resistance to flat tires is a quality that city and touring biker seek out through the entire world. But in general, and regardless of what the manufaturers say, the more a tire is protected against flats, the less it rolls easily, the less it is comfortable, the less it adheres to the road in wet weather. Therefore, unless you are going to ride on terrible roads away from civilization, it's better to avoid tires with extreme flat protection and to balance the qualities of the tire. Recent innovations in rubber formulations and technical fabrics make extreme choices unnecessary. Todays tires provide protection against flats while, at the same time, they are light, foldable and comfortable. It's worth remembering that no tire is 100% flat proof, and that the best way of overcoming a fear of flats is to know how to fix them. It is easy when one has doen it once or twice, and providing one has brought one's tools along..
Filled tires
Sometimes used on mountain bikes, foams and other liquid solutions injected into tubes to prevent flats should be banned from all other bicycles. In theory the idea is appealing: if one replaces the air by a solid material (rubber, nylon, whateve) one would never again have blowouts!n théorie l'idée est géniale : si on remplace l'air par une matière solide (gomme, nylon, ce que vous voulez) on ne crève plus jamais! And that is true. But in practice 1) there is practically no choice in the width and profile, so cross your fingers that they will fit on your rims; 2) you can't choose the pressure to which they are blown up, so that their squishing, rubbing, cornering action, etc. depends upon your weight; 3) they are heavy and don't roll well; 4) they are very, very difficult to mount on a rim; and 5) if you break a spoke and have a double-walled rim, you'll need more than luck to demount your tire to introduce a new nut for the replaced spoke. So leave the tires to those absolutely terrified of flats and those who operate rental fleets of city bikes. For the rest of us filled tires are just a theoretically appealing idea, among so many others.
The myth of 26" wheels

There exist more than thirty sizes of bike tires on the market, but most adult bikes are equipped with only two sizes:

- 26" : it is the size of almost all mountain bikes.
- 28" : also known under the French designation of 700C, it's the size of tire one finds on most road bikes, hybrids, city bikes and touring bikes.

On the forums, there are constant debates about the best choice among these sizes for bicycle treks. The reasons generally given for choosing 26" wheels are that they are stronger and that they will be easier to find on the other side of the world. These two affermations are unfortunately and sadly put forth be some fabricators of touring bikes who think they have found a way to distinguish themselves . Le us examine each of the reasons given.

- Easier to find in Africa, Asia ,Latin America, etc. Hummm ... Suppose that you are in some small village,let's say on a national highway between two cities of Chili, and you tear the casing of your tire, an incident that requires its immediate replacement. Do you think that a wonderful flat-resistant Marathon brand tire awaits you in the the obscure boutique that you will have already had trouble finding? No, it will be a very cheap nylon tire, that under your load is going to go flat rapidly and frequently. Don't kid yourself, iff you want a quality tire, it will have to be ordered either by the shop or by you on the Internet.. So remember: whether 26" or 28", you are not going to find a quality tire in isolated places, nor any other quality bike parts that might break. So, to tide you over, why buy a low quality tire. Carry a spare foldable tire with you, and order another good quality tire when you can.

It is true that26" wheels are stronger –if the components and mounting are identical. However, is that necessary given that good quality double wall rims are so much stronger than in the past? Moreover, there are other things to consider before jumping to the conclusion that 26" wheels are a better choice for a distant trip. A larger tire at the same pressure has less deformation to attain the same level of surface contact. Some studies show that that a 26" tire will have over 10% more rolling resistance than a 700C. Is this really what you want?

Some people believe thatt the size of wheels ought to follow the size of the frame, and there, idealy, the size of the biker, because a well proportioned bike (and off the shelf bikes are not well proportioned) rides better empty or loaded, is more stable, climbs mor easily, and so on. So if one is going to put up with the higher roling resistence, 26" frames should logically be reserved for very small people. Perhaps tandems destined for loaded touring are also an exception, because they require very strong rims. Otherwise, the only special preparations needed for trips in distant lands should be to take with you one or two foldable tires and some extra tubes..

What about the 650 B?

The bicycle industry, as with other industries, seeks to simplify its production and reduce its costs. So why not use the same frame for a road (racing) bike and a touring bike. It is possible if they replace a so called 28" racing wheel (actual wheel diameter of 622mm) holding a 23 mm tire (overall 670 mm in diameter) with 650 B wheels (actual wheel diameter of 584mm) and add tires that are 36mm wide, which gives them an outside tire dimension of 655mm, which is only 2.2% less. So they can mount 650 Bs in the frame and the fork of a road bike without having to make too many modifications, and ythey will have room for femders (mud guards). For the user, these bikes are expensive and have no advantages.

What about converting your existing road (racing) bike into a bike more suitable for rough city streets using 650 B wheels with wide tires? Its often possible. Quick research in the USA (2015) turned up one quality wheelset for about $300 (2015), $40 and up for new tires, $70 or more for new brakes, and add several hours of labor to make the modifications if you are not able to do it yourself.

Are you going to want to carry panniers? If so, there's only a slight chance that your bicycle will have brazes. However, if so,with the extra weight that you will be carrying, are you going to want lower gears? If so, you will need to change your chain rings and almost surely your derailers. If you are going to use the bike in hilly areas, you may need to go to a tripple chainring and you certainly will have to count several hundred additional dollars for the modifications. Perhaps you would be better off keeping your road bike for when you want to ride it, and buying a new hybrid or touring bike.

However, let us suppose that you have an old steel bike frame lying around from decades ago. It may be worth retrofitting it with new wheels (whether with 700 Cs or 650 Bs), changing out the casette and chainrings, and so on. You might end up with a nice touring bike for less than the cost of a new one.

27.5" and 29" tires
The terms 27,5" et 29" have no independent meaning. The 27,5" is the same tire as a 650 B or ETRTO 584mm, and the 29" designates wide 28 tires for a mountain bike. They are just a new way of marketing what already existed.
Tire sizes: the mess!
An incredible number of tire sizes exist.! Historically, every country had its own system of meausring for rims and tires.For example, in the French system, a number designated the exterior diameter of the mounted tire and a letter the cross-section of the tire. Thus a 650A corresponded to a rim of 590 mm of dieameter, while a 650C correcponded to a rim of 571 mm! The English system used either fractions or decimals. The first number indicated, again, the exterior diameter of the tire. But 26 x 1.75 was not the same as 26x 1 3/4. Little by little the bicycle industry became international, and one had to find equivalences between the differen wheel sizes. But this was not easy, especially when identical numbers mathmaticlly did not work out to the same size rims or tires. In folding bikes tire sizes there was also a huge mess.
The E.T.R.T.O. system to the rescue

The European Tire and Rim Technical Organization has defined international norms that completely avoid confusion in measuring rims and tires.The E.T.R.T.O. system uses two number. The first is for a tire its external cross section where it goes into the rim, and for the rim its internal width where the tire fits; the second is for a tire the inside diameter, while for the rim it is the point at which the inside of the tire rests.

It is obvious that the second E.T.R.T.O. number must match between the tire and the rim. They must be exactly the same for the tire to mount in the rim. For the second number there is a range of tires that can mount in a rim. The E.T.R.T.O. makes things simple and eliminates ambiguity. Thus a 16 x 1 3/8 x 1 3/8 becomes a 37-349 and a 16 x 1¾ x 1 ½ becomes 38-305. This example makes clear that under the old system 16" wasn't always the same diameter. The chart below has all the old sizes and their new designation. [In the French chart below "largeur" = width, "jante" = "rim" and "tringle du pneu" = "hook of the tire".

Which tire for which rim ?
Even if in theory you can mount a tire into the rim of the same diameter, a relationshp must be respected between the width of the rim and of the tire. If you uses tires that are too narrow for the rim, you risk pinch flats of the tube between the tire and the rim. If the tire width is too large for the rim, if it is not sufficiently inflated it wont be held in place and will wobble, particularly on turns. if it isinflated more, it will not touch fully the road, causing reduced traction and comfort while increasing rolling resistance. Ideal rims for large sized tires are rare, since manufacturers are always trying to reduce the weight of the rims, and therefore their size. The values presented in the table below are generally accepted by everyone, and should not be exceeded. Doing so will increase the risk of flats, degrade performance, and reduce the life of the tires and the rim.
width of the tire in mm
width of the interior of the rim in mm 18 20 23 25  28  32  35  37  40  44  47  50  54  57  60  62
 13 x x x x                        
 15     x x x x                    
 17       x x x x x x x x x        
 19         x x x x x x x x        
 21             x x x x x x x x x x
 23               x x x x x x x x x
 25                   x x x x x x x
 27                     x x x x x x
 29                         x x x x
Souce Schwabe
Quality and reliability : tubes and rim strips also matter
Tubes and rim strips/tape, being invisible, are often neglected. ils sont souvent négligés.One should not hesitate to take the best ones possible, especially since the investment in them is modest compared to their benefits. Their quality complements that of the tires, and will help reduce flats and improve tire life.

Size: tibes are. like tires, designated by their widthl and by their diameter. The latter demension needs to correspond to that of the tires and rims. Since the rubber is elastic, a tube will often serve for several widths of tires. Ideally, the minimum size of the tube should correspond with the size of the tire: the less the rubber is stretched the more resistent it will be to flats and the longer it will last. For example, if you have the choice of either a 28/40-622 tube or a 40/47-622 for a tire 40-622, choose the second one.

Material : tubes are made in either Butyl or in Latex. Butyl is very elastic and very impervious to air; latex has a coefficient of elasticity much higher than Butyl, which makes it difficult to pierce, and it is also lighter. Its principal fault is its porosity that requires checking tire pressure for each outing, perhaps daily, making it impractical for city biking and touring. It is generally used by racers and mountain bikers.

Valve : The valve is attached to the rubber during vulcanization. Thereare four types.

• Schrader : its the valvue found on car tires, which permits blowing up tires at service station.elle permet de gonfler ses pneus à une station service. With a fairly large diameter, it is often associated with large rims for large tires.: mountain bikes, childrens bikes, city bikes.. Its problem: it wears out the seals of bike pumps faster than other valves, and is leaks air more rapidly.

• Presta : it is thin and has an integrated plug that one must unscrew before being able to blow up the tube and screw closed afterwards. The little screw makes it fragile delicate to handle than the other valves, but also less likely to leak and easier to use with a hand pump. on the other hand. You must never use a presta valve in a schrader rim opening.

• Dunlop : it is widely used on Dutch bikes and elsewhere in the world, but seldom seen in the USA, England or France. It is robust, easy to use, and seals well.

• Regina : it ressembles the Presta and is utilized exclusively in Italie.

Adapters can be useful; they are tiny, and cost little.

The valve should always come through the rim at a right angle. The tube should always be correctly positioned, without a fold, or a a bulge.


Rim strips/tape : it covers all of the holes in the rim, and prevents the tube from contacting the spoke screws, for which the mechining can be rough. Rubber or cloth tape should only be used on simple rims; on a double rim a more rigid material is necessary, that wont sink deeply into the access holes for the rim screws under the pressure of air. The rim strips/tabe needs to cover the entire with of the rim to prevent movement during use, which can abrade the tube and lead to flats.

All tire sizes and their E.T.R.T.O. equivalent
  ETRTO english system french system
7" 47-93 7 x 1 3/4  
8" 47-94

20 x 47-50
8 x 2

50-94 200 x 50  
54-110 8 x 2 1/8
8 1/2 x 2
32-137 8 x 1 1/4  
10" 54-152
10 x 2
10 x 1 5/8
11" 47-222 11 x 13/4  
12" 47-203 12 1/2 x 1.75
12 1/2 x 1.90
54-203 12 x 1.95  
57-203 12 1/2 x 2 1/4 R  
62-203 12 1/2 x 2 1/4  
32-239 12 1/2 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 300 x 32A
57-239 12 1/2 x 2 1/4 300 x 55A
14" 57-251 14 1/2 x 2 1/4 300 x 55A
47-254 14 x 1.75

14 x 1.90

40-279 14 x 11/2 350 x 38B
37-288 14 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8 350A
350A Confort
350A Ballon
350A 1/2Ballon
350 x 32A
40-288 14 x 1 5/8 350 x 38A
44-288 14 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8 350A
350 x 42A
32-298 14 x 1 1/4 350A
350 x 32A
16" 40-305 16 x 1.50  
47-305 16 x 1.75
16 x 1.90
54-305 16 x 1.95

16 x 2.00

57-305 16 x 2.125  
40-330 16 x 1 1/2 400 x 38B
28-340   400 x 30A
32-340 16 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 400A
400 x 32A
37-340 16 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 400 x 35A
400A Confort
400A Ballon

400A 1/2 Ballon

44-340 16 x 1 5/8  
28-349 16 x 11/8  
32-349 16 x 11/4 NL  
37-349 16 x 1 3/8  
17" 32-357 17 x 1 1/4  
37-369 17 x 1 1/4  
18" 28-355 18 x 1 1/8  
40-355 18 x 1.50  
47-355 18 x 1.75
18 x 1.90
37-387 18 x 1 3/8  
40-387 18 x 1 1/2  
28-390 18 x 1 1/8 450 x 28A


37-390 18 x 1 3/8 450 x 35A

450A Confort
450A Ballon
450A 1/2Ballon

55-390   450 x 55A
57-390   450 x 55A
37-400 18 x 1 3/8  
20" 54-400 20 x 2 x 1 3/4
20 x 2F4J
28-406 20 x 1 1/8  
32-406 20 x 1.25  
35-406 20 x 1.35  
37-406 20 x 1 3/8  
40-406 20 x 1.50  
44-406 20 x 1.625  
47-406 20 x 1.75
20 x 1.90
50-406 20 x 2.00  
54-406 20 x 2.00  
57-406 20 x 2.125  
54-428 20 x 2.00  
40-432 20 x 1 1/2  
37-438 20 x 1 3/8 500A
40-438 20 x 1 3/8 500 x 38A
28-440   500 x 28A

500A Standard

40-440 20 x 1 1/2NL 500 x 38A
28-451 20 x 1 1/8  
37-451 20 x 1 3/8 B.S.  
22" 44-484 22 x 15/8 x 11/2  
25-489 22 x 1.00  
37-489 22 x 1 3/8 NL  
40-489 22 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/2  
50-489 22 x 2.00  
28-490   550 x 28A
550A Standard
32-490 22 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 550 x 32A
37-490 22 x 13/8 550 x 35A

550A Confort
550A Ballon
550A 1/2 Ballon

37-498 22 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4  
32-501 22 x 1 1/4  
37-501 22 x 1 3/8  
24" 40-507 24 x 1.50  
44-507 24 x 1.625
24 x 1.75
47-507 24 x 1.75
24 x 1.85/1.90
49-507 24 x 1.85  
50-507 24 x 1.90/2.00
24 x 2.00

24 x 2.125

54-507 24 x 2.10  
57-507 24 x 2.125
24 x 2.00
60-507 24 x 2.35  
44-531 24 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2  
40-534 24 x 1 1/2  
25-540 24 x 1.00  
32-540 24 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4
24 x 1 3/8
37-540 24 x 1 3/8  
40-540 24 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/2  
25-541   600 x 25A
28-541   600 x 28A

600A Standard

32-541 24 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 N4 600 x 32A
37-541   600 x 35A
600A Confort
600A Ballon
600A 1/2 Ballon
26" 25-559 26 x 1.00  
35-559 26 x 1.35  
37-559 26 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8
26 x 1.40
40-559 26 x 1.50  
44-559 26 x 1.625
26 x 1.50/1.75
47-559 26 x 1.75

26 x 1.85/1.90

50-559 26 x 1.90
26 x 1.95

26 x 1.90/2.00
26 x 2.00/2.10

54-559 26 x 1.95

26 x 2.10
26 x 2.125

57-559 26 x 2.125

26 x 2.20/2.25

60-559 26 x 2.35  
62-559 26 x 2.50  
20-571 26 x 3/4 650 x 20C
23-571 26 x 7/8 650 x 22C
40-571 26 x 1 1/2 CS
26 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/2 NL
26 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2
650 x 35C
650 x 38C
47-571 26 x 1 3/4
650 CS confort
650 x 45C
54-571 26 x 2 x 1 3/4 650 x 50C
28-584 26 x 1 1/8 x 1 1/2 650 x 28B
32-584   650 x 32B
35-584 26 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/2 650 x 35B
650B Standard
37-584 26 x 1 1/2 x 1 3/8

26 x 1 1/2

650 x 35B
40-584 26 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2 650 x 42B

650B Semi-Confort
650B 1/2 Ballon

20-590   650 x 20A
25-590 26 x 1 1/8, 1 1/4
26 x 1 3/8 - 1 1/4
650 x 32A
28-590 26 x 1 1/8 650 x 28A
32-590 26 x 1 1/4

26 x 1 3/8 x1 1/4

650 x 32A
35-590 26 x 1 3/8 650 x 35A
37-590 26 x 1 3/8 650 x 35A
40-590 26 x 1.50
28 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/2
650 x 38A
32-597 26 x 1 1/4  
27" 40-609 27 x 1 1/2  
20-630 27 x 3/4  
22-630 27 x 7/8  
25-630 27 x 1.00
27 x 1 1/16
28-630 27 x 1 1/8
27 x 1 1/4 Fifty
27 x 1 1/4
32-630 27 x 1 1/4  
28/32-630 27 x 1 1/4  
35-630 27 x 1 3/8  
28" 18-622 28 x 3/4 700 x 18C
19-622   700 x 19C
20-622 28 x 3/4 700 x 20C
22-622 28 x 7/8 700 x 22C
23-622 28 x 7/8 700 x 23C
25-622 28 x 1.00, 1 1/16 700 x 25
30-622 28 x 1.20 700 x 28C
28-622 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/8 700 x 30C
32-622 28 x 15/8 x 11/4 700 x 32
35-622 28 x 15/8 x 13/8 700 x 35C
37-622 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8 700 x 35C
40-622 28 x 1.50
28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2
700 x 38C
42-622 28 x 1.60 700 x 40C
44-622 28 x 1.625 700 x 42C
47-622 28 x 1.75 700 x 45C
50-622 28 x 1.90
28 x 2.00
60-622 28 x 2.35  
32-635 28 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/8 770 x 28B

700 x 28B

40-635 28 x 1 1/2
28 x 1 1/2 x 1 3/8
700 x 38B
700 x 35B
700 Standard
700B Standard
44-635 28 x 15/8 x 11/2 700 x 40/42B
28-642 28 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/8 700 x 28A
37-642 28 x 1 3/8 700 x 35A
Source Schwabe

Courtesy of
promouvoir le vélo pour les loisirs, les déplacements, la santé, et un meilleur avenir ™

Loosely translated into English by David May,